MEN'S LEAD QUALIFICATION

Toby ROBERTS (GBR)

“Qualification went really well, I managed to get two tops. I got quite pumped, it definitely feels like I haven’t been on a rope for a while, but I know my Lead shape is good and this feels like a good activation for the semi-final tomorrow. I’m really excited to see what I can do.”

“I’ve recently been in Japan a lot to try and improve my Boulder, I really want to improve that. With LA [Olympic Games] now being Lead and Boulder I know it’s going to take a lot of training to get in shape for both because I want to continue in both. It’s going to be tough but I’m excited for the challenge.”

Max BERTONE (FRA)

“I feel very happy, but I feel very surprised. I thought before qualification I would never top a route and now I have done two in a row. It’s pretty crazy and I am happy and confident for what’s next.”

“I expect the semi-final to be way harder because tops in semi-finals are more rare. I’m looking forward to it and I’m very excited for it.”

[Saying jokingly] “My sister [Oriane] doesn’t like the competition between us. I like it though. When we were younger, she was always beating me, but now I train to be better, and she doesn’t like that.”

WOMEN'S LEAD QUALIFICATION

Sara COPAR (SLO)

“I’m satisfied. I was super nervous for this round as it’s the first of the season and I knew I was in good shape, but I just had to show it. I wasn’t as nervous on the wall as I was before climbing so it went pretty well.”

“I’m super excited for the semi-final. It’s been a few years since I was here. I was here [in Wujiang] two years ago and I really liked the semi-final route, so I’m hoping this year is as fun as last time.”

Flora OBLASSER (AUT)

“I started the first route which had a pretty hard jump in the middle, and I fell there. I thought I was going to stick it because I’ve never fallen on a jump before and I was pretty confident, but I did fall. That put a lot of pressure on the second route as I knew I had to get far to even make it to the semi-final.”

“The second route I gave everything I had and I was happy with how I managed to deal with the pressure.”

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