The first 2024 IFSC Youth world champions were crowned today as Japan ruled the men’s Lead and Slovenia the women’s.

There were four sets of medals and titles on offer on the third day of competition in Guiyang, China as the U18 and U20 men and women crowned their new Lead champions.

In the first finals of the evening, Slovenia’s Jennifer Eucharia Buckley stood atop the women’s podium and Japan’s Kurashita Manato the men’s.

Buckley was the last to climb in the women’s competition and her score of 38+ was enough to take the win ahead of silver medallist Flora Oblasser from Austria and bronze medallist Geila Macia Martin from Spain.

After her win Buckley said: “I feel good. I’m really happy. I came here with a goal, and it was to win, and I’m proud I handled the pressure as it wasn’t easy especially knowing I was capable of winning. I trained smart, I trained hard, and it all turned out how I wanted it.”

Oblasser had a 37 hold climb and Macia Martin a 32+ and actually won the medal on time, by just five seconds ahead of Japan’s Mugishima Kohana.                                                                                                                                                                        

Spain’s Julia Benach Zubero was fifth, Austria’s Anika Deubler was sixth, Slovenia’s Lana Goric was seventh and Japan’s Yama Manami was eighth.

In the men’s competition Kurashita won his gold with a 43+ climb ahead of both South Korea’s Lee Hakjin and teammate Funaki Haru who both scored 40+. Lee won the silver thanks to better previous results and Funaki had to settle for bronze.

South Korea’s Noh Hyunseung was just off the podium in fourth ahead of fifth placed Auswin Aueareechit from Thailand, Czechia’s Jan Stipek was sixth, Japan’s Nagamori Hareru was seventh and France’s Akyan Etchar was eighth.

Following on from the U18, the U20’s doubled up on country golds for both Slovenia with Rosa Rekar and Japan with Sugimoto Yusuke.

Rekar scored a 38+ climb and was clear of silver medallist Anastasiia Kobets of Ukraine who had a hold 32 climb.

On her win Rekar said: “I’m super happy. I didn’t expect it at all. I trained super hard for it, so everything paid off. I’m also really happy about my climbing that I was able to stay focussed even though I was a little bit nervous. I gave it my all and I’m happy.”

Completing the podium was Austria’s Magdalena Kompein who with a 31+ hold climb for bronze took her country’s second medal of the night.

Switzerland’s Noe Looser finished in fourth, Japan’s Takeuchi Ai was fifth, Austria’s Ines Schwaiger was sixth, Iran’s Sarina Ghaffari was seventh and Japan’s Nagashima Michika was eighth.

Last but by no mean’s least, Sugimoto climbed to hold 43+ and to the top step of the podium ahead of silver medallist Darius Rapa of Romania who reached hold 38+ and bronze medallist Omata Shion of Japan who reached hold 35.

Sugimoto was lost for words on his win saying: “It’s unbelievable. My goal in this competition was to get a medal, and I’m really happy it was the gold. I can’t really find the words, I’m just really happy.”

Omata just pipped Germany’s Yannick Nagel in fourth and Great Britain’s Rhys Conlon in fifth to the bronze thanks to countback as they all reached the same hold in the final.

Bulgaria’s Slav Kirov was sixth, Great Britain’s Jack Macdougall was seventh and Japan’s Wada Kisato was eighth.

The action continues tomorrow where the U16’s will finish the Lead discipline before the Boulder and Speed begin later in the event.

Full results for the Youth Worlds can be found here - https://ifsc.hopp.to/YW24results