Day eight of the IFSC Youth World Championships 2024 crowned new champions in both the Speed and Boulder disciplines in Guiyang, China.

Japan added to their medal haul with another gold medal from Kayotani Ritsu in the men’s U20 Boulder and China increased their tally with yet another podium lock out, this time in the men’s U16 Speed.

There will be gold medals heading back to Europe also as France’s Lily Abriat claimed gold in the women’s U20 Boulder and Italy’s Alice Marcelli took the top step of the women’s U16 Speed competition.

BOULDER

Japan’s Kayotani Ritsu won gold at the 2022 and 2023 editions of the Youth Worlds, and he made it a three-peat by taking the men’s U20 Boulder title in Guiyang.

Kayotani had looked strong throughout the final, but so had his rivals who all topped at least two boulders, but it was the fourth and final problem where the Japanese climber showed why he has so many gold medals in his cabinet.

With none of the finalists even making the zone, Kayotani stepped up and took just two attempts to top the previous un-toppable boulder.

On his win Kayotani said: “I’m happy, especially after completing all of the boulders. I knew if I could get the last boulder I would have the win, so I was just focussed and thinking about climbing. As soon as I reached the top, I was just happy to win and get the gold for the third year in a row.”

In silver medal position was Germany’s Yannick Nagel who had flashed two of the three boulders up to the final one. Two attempts on the first boulder gave the German silver ahead of bronze medallist Slav Kirov of Bulgaria who took one more attempt on boulder three.

France’s Kito Martini in fourth, Japan’s Tamiya Eito in fifth and Australia’s Dylan Parks in sixth all topped two boulders after making the men’s final.

In the women’s competition, France’s Lily Abriat was the standout performer topping three boulders and making the zone in the other. Silver medallist Anastasiia Kobets topped two.

Abriat flashed two of her boulders in her run to gold and upgraded her 2023 bronze medal from Seoul, South Korea.

Abriat said: “I still don’t really believe it; it feels so special. It was just amazing to climb with those strong girls and I had fun throughout the whole competition. It’s my first time here in China and I’m not disappointed at all. I was third last year and my goal of this year was to get the gold, so I am glad I did it.”

Ukraine’s Kobets leaves China with two silver medals following her Lead podium earlier on in the week and showing her all-round strength in the youth field.

Germany’s Anna Maria Apel was one of only two, alongside Abriat, to make the zone on boulder one and flashed boulder two, despite not making the zones in either of the final two boulders, she held on for the bronze medal.

Sarina Ghaffari of Iran was fourth going out on a high by topping the final boulder, Italy’s Francesca Matuella was fifth and Great Britain’s Emma Edwards was sixth.

SPEED

In the U16 Speed competition there was yet another Chinese podium lock out, but unfortunately for the host nation Italy’s Alice Marcelli didn’t read the script and prevented the double-double.

China won two golds in Speed on day seven taking both the men’s and women’s titles, but they couldn’t repeat the feat as Marcelli grew in confidence throughout the competition.

Making it through to the final four, Marcelli beat Hong Kong’s Chen Sing Sen to set up a final with home favourite Wang Chunyouxuan who had beaten Thailand’s Ratchamon Thongbai in her semi-final.

Both Marcelli and Wang slipped in the final race, but Marcelli overcame her rival with a 8.85s run compared to 10.21s.

After winning Marcelli said: “I can’t really believe it, I’m just so happy. After the qualification I was scared about the other athletes, but when one of the Chinese climbers went out earlier than expected I realised I could do it.

“In the final I was going quite well, but then I slipped. Even when I slipped though I felt the other girl slipped with me, so I just tried to push as hard as I could.”

Beaten semi-finalist’s Thongbai and Chen faced off in the bronze medal match with the Thai climber coming out on top in a close race – 8.73s to 8.81s.

Just like the U18’s, the Chinese U16 team scored their own podium lock out, this time in the men’s competition. Again three of the four finalists where from China so medals were always assured.

Zhao Yicheng, Li Yang and Yu Zexuan had to battle USA’s Khoi Tran, and Li was the first to do so. He beat the American in the semi-final to put himself in with a shot of gold, and left Tran to fight for bronze.

Zhao was to be the gold medal contender beating teammate Yu in the other semi-final, and he also went on to take the top step of the podium by beating Li 5.03s to 5.52s in the final race of the competition. Zhao had the gold, Li the silver.

Yu joined his compatriots on the podium beating Tran 5.77s to 6.92s in the small final to take the bronze.

Full results for the Youth Worlds can be found here - https://ifsc.hopp.to/YW24results