Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret became a two-time Olympic Games gold medallist after winning the women’s Boulder & Lead competition despite a mid-session injury scare.

Garnbret made the top step ahead of close friend and silver medallist Brooke Raboutou of the USA and bronze medallist Jessica Pilz of Austria. Garnbret’s gold also made her the first Slovenian to win two gold medals at a summer Olympic Games.

Sitting on top of the Boulder standings at the end of the round, Garnbret went back into isolation ahead of the Lead round in some discomfort in her efforts on the fourth Boulder, as she explains: "I was really scared because my finger got stuck in between two holes (of a hold) and I couldn't get it out. So I was scared that I had fractured something, and I already fractured exactly this finger ten years ago.

"I was scared I did it again, but I had so much adrenaline that I didn't even care. I said to myself, 'I don't care if I'm missing a hand or a finger, I will go out there and climb the route.'

"It doesn't feel broken. I can move it. I will check when I come back to Slovenia, but I think nothing too serious."

With her 84.4pts from Boulder and a climb of 84.pts on Lead, Garnbret was lowered to the floor where she was visibly emotional that she had retained the title she won at Tokyo 2020.

Garnbret said: "I'm just feeling incredibly happy and proud of myself, what I did, and I'm relieved, because it's finally over.

"I qualified one year ago (at the IFSC World Championships Bern 2023), so it was hard to wait and to finally start the competition.

"I don't know if people realise how hard it is to go out there and just do it, but it wasn't easy at all, but I did it. I learned in Tokyo how to handle the pressure at the Olympics. And I could use that here, and I was just in my own world.

"I was just doing what I do in training, completely focused. I didn't let anything affect me. So I could just enjoy."

Silver medallist Raboutou was the first to run to her friend Garnbret on stage and the duo embraced knowing they would be sharing the podium.

Raboutou had a strong Boulder round with 84.0pts and her 72.pts Lead climb gave her a guaranteed medal, but she had to wait for Garnbret and Pilz to climb to see which colour that would be.

With Pilz adding an 88.1pts Lead climb to a 59.3pts Boulder, her total of 147.4pts compared to Raboutou’s 156.0pts which meant the American had silver and the Austrian the bronze.

On what winning silver meant to her, Raboutou said: “Being in France, being half French, and having my French family out here, and the support from the crowd, I did feel it.”

Talking about her friendship with Garnbret she said: “This was just the dream. We have an incredible friendship, where we both want each other to do our best. That's what happened today, and it feels really good to share that with somebody.

“To share that connection as both a friend and an idol is incredible. I look up to her so much, and I'm so grateful for the support she's given me as well.”

On how she was feeling about her medal, Pilz said: "I'm overjoyed that it worked out like that. I have to say, behind the wall (she felt pressure), clearly. But once I was on the wall, I just realised that this was my thing. 

"I just feel comfortable on the Lead wall. I feel comfortable there and always much more excited.  

"You don't know exactly what's coming. But in the Lead, I knew that if I climbed as easily as I did in the semi and could simply deliver my performance, then I could go far. I'm just happy that it worked out that way."

Japan’s Mori Ai just missed out on a medal in fourth with a 96.1pts Lead climb – the best of the day – not enough to make up the ground after a 39.0pts Boulder round for a total of 135.1pts.

A solid performance in both discipline’s left Great Britain’s Erin McNiece with a total of 127.6pts overall in fifth overall ahead of sixth placed Chaehyun Seo of South Korea who finished with a total of 105.0pts.

Seventh placed Oceania Mackenzie of Australia had a total of 104.8pts and home nation climber Oriane Bertone was eighth with a total of 104.5pts.

The crowds throughout Paris 2024 have been cheering in support for every climber – and even louder for the French - the final day was no different with the adoring crowds even shouting and cheering for the climbers as they made their way to the mixed zone for the final interviews of climbing’s second appearance at an Olympic Games.

Full results can be found on the IFSC website homepage: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org