MEN'S SPEED

LONG Jianguo (CHN) - GOLD MEDALLIST

“During climbing I only focus on climbing, but before I am nervous, so I’m happy to win.”

Hryhorii ILCHYSHYN (UKR) - SILVER MEDALLIST

“I am very happy, but I still think I can get a lower time. Maybe at the next World Cup in Bali. I expected to go under five seconds, but I think I can go lower.”

WOMEN'S SPEED

ZHANG Shaoqin (CHN) - GOLD MEDALLIST

“I didn’t think about anything else other than my own climbing. I wanted to enjoy my competition and enjoy the climbing. I’m so happy that I represent my country and make them proud.”

JEONG Jimin (KOR) - SILVER MEDALLIST 

“I’m happy but not totally satisfied as I was so close to the gold medal.”

“I didn’t expect the record, but it is definitely more motivation going forward.”  

MEN'S LEAD SEMI-FINAL

Filip SCHENK (ITA)

"The semi-final was crazy for me. I’m coming out of a very bad period with an injury so I think I was really relaxed mentally. Because of that I could show my best climbing in a really good flow, and I really enjoyed it. It was amazing."

"I was the first out and for sure I didn’t expect to make final as after I finished I thought maybe the route was very easy and there would be a lot of tops. But then I saw some pretty strong climbers falling and slowly I started believing in it."

WOMEN'S LEAD SEMI-FINAL

Anna Maria APEL (GER)

"I’m very happy, I really enjoyed the route and had a lot of fun. I could smile during climbing and it was a completely enjoyable round for me."

"I was still a bit skeptical when people were telling me it was enough, and I wanted to wait a little and have some more people have their results because it can be that the route is easier for others and there are more tops."

"It’s my second Lead World Cup ever, my first semi-final and now my first final. I think ill approach things the same way I did today, I will just do the best I can and see what happens."

MEN'S LEAD QUALIFICATION

Toby ROBERTS (GBR)

“Qualification went really well, I managed to get two tops. I got quite pumped, it definitely feels like I haven’t been on a rope for a while, but I know my Lead shape is good and this feels like a good activation for the semi-final tomorrow. I’m really excited to see what I can do.”

“I’ve recently been in Japan a lot to try and improve my Boulder, I really want to improve that. With LA [Olympic Games] now being Lead and Boulder I know it’s going to take a lot of training to get in shape for both because I want to continue in both. It’s going to be tough but I’m excited for the challenge.”

Max BERTONE (FRA)

“I feel very happy, but I feel very surprised. I thought before qualification I would never top a route and now I have done two in a row. It’s pretty crazy and I am happy and confident for what’s next.”

“I expect the semi-final to be way harder because tops in semi-finals are more rare. I’m looking forward to it and I’m very excited for it.”

[Saying jokingly] “My sister [Oriane] doesn’t like the competition between us. I like it though. When we were younger, she was always beating me, but now I train to be better, and she doesn’t like that.”

WOMEN'S LEAD QUALIFICATION

Sara COPAR (SLO)

“I’m satisfied. I was super nervous for this round as it’s the first of the season and I knew I was in good shape, but I just had to show it. I wasn’t as nervous on the wall as I was before climbing so it went pretty well.”

“I’m super excited for the semi-final. It’s been a few years since I was here. I was here [in Wujiang] two years ago and I really liked the semi-final route, so I’m hoping this year is as fun as last time.”

Flora OBLASSER (AUT)

“I started the first route which had a pretty hard jump in the middle, and I fell there. I thought I was going to stick it because I’ve never fallen on a jump before and I was pretty confident, but I did fall. That put a lot of pressure on the second route as I knew I had to get far to even make it to the semi-final.”

“The second route I gave everything I had and I was happy with how I managed to deal with the pressure.”

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