Olukayode Adeyemi SONUGA of Nigeria
IFSC WORLD CUP PRAGUE 2024: WHAT THEY SAID

Quotes and thoughts straight out of the field of play at the fourth Boulder World Cup competition of the season.

The eighth event of the IFSC World Cup Series 2024 started in Prague, Czechia, and will conclude on Sunday, 22 September. Here is every comment collected across the entire Boulder competition.

MEN'S BOULDER QUALIFICATION

Chon Jongwon (KOR), seventh with four tops and four zones:

“I think the boulders in my group were more physical, which is good for me. I was nervous going into isolation because I remembered that last year in Prague there were some tricky boulders in the qualification round, and I did not do well.

“I am not feeling a lot of pressure, I hope I will send some hard boulders tomorrow.”

Albin Meyer (SWE), 69th with two zones, competing at his first-ever World Cup event:

“It was hard. I mean, I had a lot of fun, but it was hard! I felt like I had enough power in my body, but I was still halfway there.

I have been training in Sweden on some good-level boulders, but I was not prepared for harder problems like these. I am still learning, and I want to be better next season. I will come back because it was a lot of fun!”

WOMEN'S BOULDER QUALIFICATION

Selma Elhadj Mimoune (FRA), 15th with three tops and five zones:

“It is my last World Cup event this season, so I wanted to have a good qualification round. I found the boulders a bit hard for me, but I also believe I did not have the right beta for all of them. However, I am happy with my climbing.

“On the most physical boulders, I had some issues with my heel hook, then on another one my foot slipped. They were tricky, but they were very good! My goal here is first to make it to the semi-final, then to try hard and enjoy the competition.”

Michaela Smetanova (CZE), 27th with one top and four zones:

“It was great to compete in front of my home crowd, a completely different feeling compared. Boulders are usually tough for me, as I am more of a Lead climber, but with them cheering me on I had extra motivation to try hard.

The round could have been better for me. I was close to the top two of the boulders, but I just did not do it in time. It could have been better, but I am satisfied!”

MEN’S BOULDER SEMI-FINAL

Narasaki Tomoa (JPN), second with four tops and four zones:

“I felt in very good shape, I am excited. I am glad that Adam [Ondra] made it to the final as well. The first boulder was interesting, it reminded me of the final in Meiringen in 2021.”

MEN’S BOULDER FINAL

Lee Dohyun (KOR), first with two tops and four zones:

“I love Prague! I can’t believe I won again here, how can I explain my feelings? I’m just very happy! There were some tricky moves in the final, some boulders were complicated for me, but I did my best, and it paid off!”

Manuel Cornu (FRA), second with two tops and three zones:

“It’s crazy, right? It definitely feels crazy. I don’t have a lot of words tonight. I’m back from a long difficult period. One year ago, here in Prague, the first words to my coach after the qualification round were ‘It’s over for me’. And now I’m here, on the podium.

“I didn’t think it was possible for both [Anraku] Sorato and [Narasaki] Tomoa to fall on the fourth boulder. So I was quite sure I was going to get fourth place. I was very surprised.”

Toby Roberts (GBR), third with two tops and two zones:

“I am so psyched! It was a strange final. I never thought I could be on the podium, but I did not give up, I was able to put it together and find the top on the final boulder. I can’t quite believe I’m on the podium, but I am really happy!”

WOMEN’S BOULDER SEMI-FINAL

Oceania Mackenzie (AUS), second with two tops and three zones:

“The first boulder was definitely my style, I really enjoyed it, and the second one had a jump that was tricky to figure out, but I got it. The friction felt really bad on the last two ones, I got the closest on my last try on the third problem, but it didn’t work and I just got the zone. Last boulder? No idea! It was very unsatisfying!

“I feel a bit mixed at the moment. I’m becoming more consistent, and feeling happy coming to all World Cups, which is a really important thing for me. But I’ve actually had a few injuries that are not making me feel my best on the wall, which is a bit frustrating. But overall I’m enjoying comps, and with comps I’m enjoying good performances.

“I couldn’t pass the World Cup in Prague because last year I had so much fun, the crowd is incredible, the city is beautiful. Same for [South] Korea and Salt Lake City, one of my favourite cities. I was tossing up if I should do Lead and Boulder, and I love them both so much that I just couldn’t decide not to!

“Making fourth place in Salt Lake City in Boulder, and then again fourth in Koper in Lead, makes me more motivated to try and get my first podium. It’s not a good or a bad thing, I just have a lot of exciting things to come, I hope!”

WOMEN’S BOULDER FINAL

Natalia Grossman (USA), first with three tops and four zones:

“I kind of started to lose belief on the first move [of the last boulder], my arms were so tired. I knew what the intended beta was, but I was way too tired, so I found my own way. I knew that once I got the zone, I love crimps and I was like ‘I want that crimp, I want that finish hold!’

“This win means so much to me, more than any win I’ve had recently. It signifies that if I believe in myself, I can do it.

“[Prague] is one of the best World Cups I’ve been to, one of the best crowds. It was awesome, thank you!”

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