Finalists set for last World Cup Boulder final of the year
South Korea’s Lee Dohyun left it late to secure a final spot in the men’s Boulder at his home event in Seoul at the season ending finale.
With six final spots up for grabs, a host of climbers were sitting on three tops and four zones with France’s Paul Jenft and Mejdi Schalck sitting in joint sixth and thinking a shot at a last podium of the 2024 season was on the cards - but Lee had other ideas.
The last climber out on the mats for the men, Lee needed a flash on the fourth and final boulder to progress to the finals, and to the delight of the home crowd, that is exactly what he did meaning the French duo missed out on the evening final and Lee progressing in sixth place.
There is more home interest in the final with Chon Jongwon continuing his good form progressing in fourth place.
Leading the way though is another Asian country – Japan. With three tops and four boulders for positions three to ten, Narasaki Meichi and Amagasa Sohta were the only two climbers to top all four semi-final boulders and secure the one-two respectively.
Talking about the round Amagasa said: “It was a hard round for me. I had so many attempts and for the final boulder I was really tired. But for this round I needed to get all boulders and I really had to focus for the last. I thought maybe after I topped the final boulder I thought I would make the final but I wasn’t sure.”
Amagasa did indeed make the finals, so what now: “I want to get onto the podium again. I want another gold medal.”
Team Japan are a close knit team and Narasaki and Amagasa are close friends, but only one can take the top spot in Seoul. When asked about competing against his friend Amagasa said with a smile on his face: “Meichi is my rival, but I want to enjoy the final with him and get to stand on the podium with him.”
Turning the men’s final into a team event is Great Britain who join South Korea and Japan with two representatives. Max Milne and Dayan Akhtar - already with a personal best by reaching the final – will try and disrupt an all-Asian podium.
Into the final in third Milne said: “It felt amazing. I executed really well in Prague but I missed finals because I didn’t come out sharp enough, but here right from the get go I was here to win.”
With a new Olympic champion in their ranks, and a strong performance in Seoul, Milne talks about the current state of Great British climbing: “It’s been a phenomenal season for us, the whole nation is on the rise. Me and Dayan in the final and Erin also, three GB athletes in the finals is amazing.”
Full men’s results can be found here: https://ifsc.hopp.to/se24mbr
In the women’s Boulder it is Japan once again who top the rankings. Nonaka Miho however will have to battle it out on her own for another medal for her country as the sole final participant from Japan.
With three tops and four zones for positions one to five, Nonaka takes the top spot on attempts in what should be a thrilling women’s final.
In the sixth and last final place is Erin Mcneice who continues her stellar 2024 season. Two tops and four zones put Mcneice into the final with all below one zone short of the British climber.
Sandwiched between Nonaka and Mcneice are USA and France. Both countries have two representatives in the final. France has Zélia Avezou in second and Agathe Calliet in fifth and USA has Natalia Grossman in third and Annie Sanders in fourth.
American Sanders is still enjoying her first year on the senior circuit and makes another final. Talking about her semi-final performance Sanders said: “I’m happy with my performance. I’m a little frustrated I didn’t top the second boulder but I’m happy with my progression on each boulder and how I made adjustments on each when I needed to.”
Sanders season progression has seen her make semi-finals, then finals, then an Innsbruck podium. When asked about the next step being a golden one Sanders said: “Right now, I’m just trying to have fun and do my best with it and I guess I will see where that takes me.”
For teammate Grossman, her season has been a little different as she has been dealing with some injuries, and that potentially seems to be the case again in Seoul after leaving with ice on her right shoulder. Grossman is still however in pole position for the 2024 Series title after making the final.
For the French climbers, Avezou has been showing her strength throughout the year, even making a home Games at Paris 2024. For Calliet, it is a personal best by making the final with her previous best Boulder finish 12th.
Signing off the Boulder season with a smile (as always) is South Korea’s Seo Chaehyun. Despite finishing in 19th, Seo is more than happy with her time in her home country saying: “Actually it’s my first semi-final here in Seoul I felt super energy from my home crowd and I was happy to climb in front of them. I think in the Lead now I will get even more energy, and I will show them a good performance.”
In return for the energy, the home crowd has been looking to get a picture and signature from the two-time Olympian, and Seo is more than happy to oblige: “After the Olympics more normal people and not just climbers know me. It’s changed a lot. It’s cool and I love it.”
Full women’s results can be found here: https://ifsc.hopp.to/se24wbr
The men’s final will be first at 18:00 local time (UTC+9:00) followed by the women’s final and will be live streamed on the IFSC YouTube channel. Geographical restrictions will be applied.
News and updates about all IFSC events will be available on the IFSC website, and on the Federation’s digital channels: Facebook, Instagram, X, Threads, TikTok, LinkedIn, and exclusively for the Chinese audience, Douyin and Weibo.