Flora OBLASSER of Austria
Lead
IFSC World Cup
Chamonix 2024
MANAGING INJURIES AND YOUNGSTERS EXCEL IN CHAMONIX

The final eights get ready for a night of Lead climbing to decide the 2024 medals

After a night of Speed in Chamonix, France attention turned to Lead once again on Sunday morning as the 26 semi-final men and women worked to keep their medal hopes alive by making the top eight for a finals place.

The only top of the day was from Great Britain’s Toby Roberts in the men’s competition, and with that heads the field and the one to beat in the evening finale.

In second overall is the Olympic champion Alberto Ginés López of Spain who continues to nurse an injury, but climbed to hold 41 for his final spot’

Ginés López said: “I didn’t climb my best; I was a bit nervous. I was talking with Sam [Avezou] and Adam [Ondra] and we thought the route would be a bit harder at the beginning. It was a bit like a combined route. A bit easier in the beginning and then from the half to the top it gets harder, that is nice for me because you get super pumped, and this is what Lead is supposed to do to you.”

Limping off stage after his climb, the Spaniard assures us things are ok: “It's nothing serious because I have been dealing with a problem for about four months now, it’s just a bit annoying. It’s many things wrong in my big toe. Many, many things. But it will be fine.”

Three climbers share the third spot with Czechia’s Adam Ondra, home crowd favourite Sam Avezou and Japan’s Omata Shion all making it to hold 40+.

Switzerland’s Sascha Lehmann made hold 35+ in sixth spot and is ahead of USA’s Colin Duffy who also made the same hold but placed lower than the Swiss climber in qualification.

There will be two Spanish climbers to represent the nation in the men’s final with Guillermo Peinado Franganillo making his first World Cup final to complete the line-up.

The full men’s results can be found here

It’s many things wrong in my big toe. Many, many things. But it will be fine. Alberto Ginés López (ESP)

Japan’s Mori Ai is once again in great Lead form and is top of the women’s standings. Mori reached hold 45+ for first with Austria’s Jessica Pilz in second on hold 43+.

Anastasia Sanders continues to impress on the senior stage as the 16-year-old makes another World Cup final with a hold 40 climb, and she is not the only young gun to make it through being joined by Austria’s Flora Oblasser.

Reaching hold 38 for fourth place Oblasser said: “I’m so happy and I can’t explain what I am feeling right now. There are too many emotions, I just made my first World Cup final! The crowds in Chamonix are huge. Innsbruck is my home World Cup and crowd, and it’s just as crazy here. I’m 16, it’s my first final, I’m going to give it my all now. All or nothing.”

Kotake Mei makes it two Japanese climbers in the final on hold 35+ for fifth place, but Austria takes the majority with Mattea Pötzi joining Pilz and Oblasser.

Kotake and Pötzi were among ten climbers on 35+, but with their qualification performances it’s Slovenia’s Mia Krampl and France’s Zélia Avezou who make the cut.

The full women’s results can be found here

The climbing continues with the Speed qualification and Speed finals live from the IFSC World Cup Chamonix 2024 and can be watched live on the IFSC YouTube channel or selected broadcasters depending on where you are viewing from.

News and updates about the event will be available on the IFSC website and on the Federation’s digital channels: Facebook, Instagram, X, TikTok, LinkedIn, and exclusively for the Chinese audience, Douyin and Weibo.

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