The IFSC World Cup 2024 season comes to a close in Seoul, South Korea
Austria’s Jessica Pilz signed off the 2024 season with a Lead double in Seoul, South Korea at the final event of the year.
Pilz took gold in the women’s Lead event – the third gold of her career – to not only make the top step of the event podium but also taking her to the summit of the 2024 overall Series title.
Time was a factor in Seoul for the women and Pilz was just shy of making the top of the final route but hold 48 was enough for the Austrian.
Talking about the time Pilz said: “It was quite a long route, so I knew I had to be fast. It was kind of part of the game on this route.”
When talking about her win Pilz said: “I really didn’t expect it. I think it’s only my third World Cup gold medal so I’m quite happy, and what an end to the season.”
Japan’s Mori Ai also timed out on her route, and just like Pilz topped the route but got downgraded. Unfortunately for Mori the downgrade was marked at hold 46 which meant it was silver – the third World Cup medal of the year for the Japanese climber following gold in Chamonix, France and silver in Innsbruck, Austria.
Annie Sanders has had a great trip to South Korea with two medals from two competitions. After taking her first gold in Boulder, the American backed it up with a bronze in the Lead. Once again time was a factor and Sanders reached hold 45 in her six minutes.
By winning two medals at the same event Sanders joined an exclusive group of only three climbers to have achieved the feat. The others were Janja Garnbret - who has done it three times – and Sandrine Levet.
Unfortunately for the home crowd there was no home medallist in the women’s as the ever popular Seo Chaehyun just missed out finishing in fourth on hold 44+.
Great Britain’s Erin Mcneice also timed out on her route with 43 her mark for fifth position. Slovenia’s Rosa Rekar finished in sixth on hold 39, China’s Zhang Yuteong was seventh with hold 30+ and teammate Luo Zhilu was eight on hold 30.
Full women’s results can be found here
Japan’s Anraku Sorato returned to the top step of a World Cup podium with gold in Seoul. The win was the fourth of his career to date in only his second year but was the first of the 2024 series.
Anraku reached hold 45+ an looked disappointed as he lowered to the ground after his climb, that was until he realised it was enough to take the win and the usual smile returned for all to see.
Despite his win though, such is his rivalry and respect for his friend, Olympic champion Toby Roberts of Great Britain, his mind was on their next battle: “I’m just happy to get a gold medal this year, finally. This competition Toby [Roberts] didn’t compete, so I am happy now, but I have to train more for next year. I want to beat Toby. His concentration is so high.”
Wanting the Boulder and Lead double in his home World Cup, South Korea’s Lee Dohyun just missed out on the rare feat by countback. Lee made it to the same hold as Anraku, hold 45+, but had to settle for silver because of the semi-final performances of the pair.
Just like the women and Sanders, Lee joined a group of three to win medals in Boulder and Lead at the same event. He joins Colin Duffy and Sean McColl in the achievement.
There were two Japanese climbers on the podium with Omata Shion joining Anraku.
Omata reached hold 35 for his bronze which is his second of the year after also taking third spot in Briançon, France.
The French pair of Paul Jenft and Sam Avezou were fourth and fifth respectively, both reaching hold 34+.
A trio of Japanese climbers rounded off the final places with Ogata Yoshiyuki in sixth on hold 32+, Imaizumi Yuta in seventh on hold 26+ and Homma Taisei in eighth after an early slip left him on hold 23.
Full men’s results can be found here
OVERALL 2024 SERIES RANKING
Although not competing in Seoul, Olympic champion Toby ROBERTS (GBR) won the men’s overall Lead title with the help of two gold medals - in Wujiang, China and Koper, Slovenia
Omata Shion was one of two Japanese climbers on the overall podium posting consistent results throughout the season and taking second overall
Teammate and Olympic silver medallist Anraku Sorato takes third, confirmed with the help of gold in Seoul
- Toby ROBERTS (GBR) – 3380 points
- OMATA Shion (JPN) – 2915 points
- ANRAKU Sorato (JPN) – 2845 points
Full men’s results can be found here
Winning in Seoul gave Jessica Pilz the overall series title for 2024 for the women. Two more silver medals helped her total ahead of second placed Janja Garnbret.
The two-time Olympic champion Garnbret’s total was helped by winning all three of the events she participated in during 2024.
Two silvers – including in Seoul – and a gold helped Mori Ai’s to third place to join Pilz and Garnbret on the final podium.
- Jessica PILZ (AUT) – 3220 points
- Janja GARNBRET (SLO) – 3000 points
- MORI Ai (JPN) – 2610 points
Full women’s results can be found here
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