The U16 men and women brought the Lead climbing to a close at the IFSC Youth World Championships Guiyang 2024 as Japan and South Korea claimed the golds.

Japan’s Hayashi Arisa added to her nation’s tally from the U18 and U20 categories the previous night while South Korea’s Jung Chanjin claimed his country’s first gold of the event.  

Hayashi was the last to climb in the women’s category and knew only a top would be enough. She confidently ascended the wall and concentration turned to elation as she turned to face the crowd knowing she was the new Youth world champion.

Hayashi said: “I’m very, very happy. I like Lead and I have trained a lot of Lead for this event. I knew I had to top to win, and I felt a little bit nervous, but I wanted to win and get a medal and so I just had to do my best.”

The home crowd in China just missed out on the golden celebration as Yu Chenxuan was the one Hayashi moved above for the win. It meant with her top Yu had to settle for silver ahead of Switzerland’s Julia Rasmussen who also topped for bronze.

Another home favourite, Li Meini, just missed out on the podium despite also topping the route. Li was fourth ahead of Ukraine’s Rafael Kazbekova who was just one second away from also joining the group of climbers to top. She had hold 54 for fifth place.

Great Britain’s Isabella Rinaldi was sixth with hold 43+, Japan’s Nakamura Marin was seventh on hold 42+ and South Korea’s Lee Suye was also on the same hold but in eighth.

Just like Hayashi, Jung was also the last climber out in his competition and was also feeling confident after topping every route so far in the qualification and semi-final. It was his top in the semi-final that secured Jung the gold as he scored a hold 39+ climb just like silver medallist Hamada Ryusei of Japan, with his better countback scores securing the win.

Jung said: “I didn’t expect first, but I expected a podium, so I’m really happy and I can’t wait for the next competition. This really gives me confidence for the Boulder competition now.”

Joining Jung and Hamada on the podium was bronze medallist Park Taesung, also of South Korea. Park climbed to hold 37+ for his medal.

Fourth place went to Japan’s Nakata Kazuki on hold 36+ and fifth was South Korea’s Lee Hayool with the same score.

Italy’s Andrea Ludovico Chelleris was sixth on hold 34+, Japan’s Uehara Ikken was seventh on hold 28 and USA’s Beckett Hsin was unfortunately stopped on hold 14 following a quickdraw error.

The Youth Worlds now moves away from Lead to the Boulder and Speed disciplines for all age categories - U16,U18, U20.

Full results for the Youth Worlds can be found here - https://ifsc.hopp.to/YW24results